Close Up Runway Paris Magazine
About Close Up Runway Paris MagazineAfter the fiesta of the Milan pret-a-porter shows, Paris opens its doors to the new creations of famous and up-and-coming designers, and Runway tells all through the pictures of the most significant collections for spring-summer 2011. A detailed photo report on leading trends, on the designers who always know how to call the shots in terms of style, and trendy new youth labels which we will soon be hearing about. To be privy to, in a complete preview, the fashion to come. Paris Fashion Week, dedicated to spring-summer 2011 focuses on innovation. There is a new kind of femininity on the catwalk. Intimate and eclectic, playful and different, the woman represented by the new French collections distances herself from the glamourous look seen in recent seasons, banning frivolities and romance in the name of a refined (and rediscovered) elegance, that is certainly more cerebral. Dries Van Noten, the leader of this new trend, opts for an androgynous fashion, rigorous, yet ready to venture unusual combinations, bright colours and shapes with a futuristic air. This is not a masculine style that mimics the opposite sex, but the search for a new style that aims to undermine the standards of taste dictated by pret-a-porter. According to Dries Van Noten, a woman can nonchalantly wear a huge, double-breasted jacket, oversized from the shoulders down and maxi trousers lightened by belts that highlight the waist; Barbara Bui convinces with her boxy macro-suede blazer, while Limi Feu plays with shape, presenting a comic, egg-shaped tuxedo and abnormal dust-coats that are all torn, for vagrants from another time. With an eye toward the future, next summer 's fashion is looking in different directions. The masculine-cut suit loses its classical connotation, to allow it to be played down in more unusual ways, curves, diagonal cuts and drape lay down the rules for new shapes to be worn. The linearity of the sheath dress is banned in favour of a triumph of folds, pleats and thick stitching, creating unusual effects draped on the silhouette in search of volume and amazing asymmetry. Anne Valerie Hash modulates shirts and trousers in silk with a soft raw-cut drape and natural-chic; Sharon Wauchob carves clothes in a high architecture, such as bolero jackets and micro-pleated cocktail dresses; Amaya Arzuaga moulds fabrics, composing real sculptures-a-porter. Though futuristic and innovative, the summer season cannot treat lightness and vivacity with disdain: here we have then, graceful voile dresses with soft shapes and fires of colours, from blue to green to yellow, appearing on the catwalk. The watchword is layering: layers of very fine transparent voile overlap with irregularities to create blouses, shirts, slim tunics worn over leggings. The important thing is that they are transparent and colourful, to turn heads and show off lingerie. There have been many the examples seen this season: between the cult items, those of Guy Laroche, Issey Miyake, Rue du Mail, and Dior. And when evening comes, it is the spirit of glitter rock that wins out. Strobe effects, silver, lunar and space effects ranging from the boleros of Dries Van Noten, the disco style of the Pierre Cardin suits, to the knitwear with metal flakes of AF Vandevorst. The Paris collections for next spring and summer, then, move to an evolution of taste, turning their backs on the more 'glossy' glamour and suggesting a strong rock personality, in which male and female live together peacefully to create a new muse style. images: 2000 pages: 608 format: cm. 24,5 x 33 More Info
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About Close Up Runway Paris
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